October 16, 2023 FDCI

Study of contrasts

Anju Modi is paying homage to “white weddings”, with signature crafts and a wish to move away from conventional palettes.

By Asmita Aggarwal

The strife during the pandemic has undoubtedly made us value moments, ourselves, and relationships more than anything else. Thus, Anju Modi believes if the upcoming wedding season is any indication, young brides hope to intermingle tradition with a young, sensual vibe in their trousseau. “My design ethos has taken a global form, even though the embroidery techniques have historical references,” she explains.

Blouses are risqué and veils are omnipresent, with a play on length as seen in Parineeti Chopra wedding to AAP politician Raghav Chadha, selecting an extended version, making it perfect for a destination wedding. Modi, this time for LFW 2023, has introduced white weddings for the global customer, along with her favourite — hues of pashmina as many are abandoning traditional reds. “Almost 70 per cent brides want a white wedding, even tones of blush, as seen on Anoushka Sharma, Katrina Kaif and even Kiara Advani’s ceremonies, have seen a surge in popularity,” she explains.

The white bride is ideal for morning, destination-beach, as well as Western and South Indian weddings. “You can add a tinge of red in the dupattas, but I see an influx of well-educated professionals, who are going colourless/off white, wanting simplicity and elegance in their D Day attire,” she admits. Flared lehengas, veils are worn on top of heads as well as to cover the face for modesty, most are checking out venues to add this important element in their happy day. Anju had a bride come to her wanting a long veil that falls beautifully on the stairs, as she walks down to join the groom.

Twill with its sheerness works well for veils, and champagne hued ones add a third dimension to the look, much like what Pakistani actress Mahira Khan recently wore to her wedding with long-time beau Salim Karim. Working extensively with silk dupion, organza, Banarasi tissue and brocades; foil and gotta-patti have been her constant language of expression. Tone-on-tone with wool and 3-D embroidery, mixed with cutouts make up Anju’s collection titled “Fluid Algorithm” at LFW.

Referring to the rules in computer science, she has turned it to mirror how both traditional and modern brides can wear the ensembles, as the rules in her book are flexible, but the foundation remains craft-oriented with a strong signature coming forth. “I see discussions about artificial intelligence, and algorithms, mathematics, but logic is like a river, it flows,” she confirms.

Draped skirts, her best seller, two-piece sari sets, off shoulder blouses worn with skirts which can double up for day wear later and not be locked in a suitcase waiting to be dusted for the next family wedding. There is volume in skirts, making it easier to team up with a jacket, trench, parka offering multi-purpose usage. Cobalt blue takes centre stage this season, lilac, old rose, dusty pinks are combined with jewel tones of emerald, ruby but the twist is in the contrasting—an effortless technique that accentuates the piece.

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Fashion Design Council of India