October 14, 2022 FDCI

Blending Ideologies

The past meets the present paving the way for the future as Abraham and Thakore reinvent weaves, encourage sustainability with restyling and demonstrate how in their 30-year journey, timeless is the only trend they believe in!

By Asmita Aggarwal

Three decades is a milestone to celebrate, and Abraham and Thakore have achieved a lot more than they set out to do, in an industry where handloom seldom found the pride of place in a woman’s wardrobe. They elevated it to museum pieces, with the classic, double ikkat houndstooth sari, making it to Victoria and Albert, UK.

Their FDCIxLFW line proved you can wear their past pieces with a new twist, just like the showstopper sari that Carol Gracias wore, was belted in the show, titled “Feminine and Masculine” many years ago, with a matching blouse in 2011. This time, it was styled with a sequinned, contrasting blouse updating it to a modern context. “The idea was to add freshness to it, and demonstrate how the past, present and future merge together in one line,” says Rakesh Thakore.

The collection was styled with pieces which were most loved by their legion of fans, so they dipped into the archives, restyled them, also teaching all the trend lovers a lesson in pure sustainability. This is also a season of change and reinvention; thus khadi was intermingled with tencel, the old meets the new, two different compositions blending effortlessly to create interesting textures. “Technology can be a harbinger of change, different from the time I started on the Vishwakarma looms. The younger audience appreciates handlooms, but they need a more contemporary take on it,” he adds.

The brand’s love affair with monochromes is ongoing, but Rakesh says, it is not just a colour, it is a philosophy and how you make it relevant is a dichotomy—both easy as well as challenging. “Monochromes give you the clarity of thought is what we learnt at our time in NID, Ahmedabad. Understanding proportions, form and shapes, and then when you add colour, you know how the garment will alter its disposition, they can remain timeless, but engaging. We make clothing that you can wear for generations, it is not season-specific,” he confirms.

And if you ask Rakesh what has been the biggest personal lesson being in an industry as diverse as ours, his reply is immediate–“humility”. To also remain focused, and not participate in any race, but to believe in your vision, even if it takes time to materialize.  “We have to imbibe the language of modern India in our clothing, we have to change with the times, without losing our individual identity. Innovating on patterns and techniques and working with the most talented weavers from different parts of the country has been the most satisfying experience,” he concludes.

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Fashion Design Council of India