July 28, 2022 FDCI

Golden Ratio

Leonardo Pisano Fibonacci Maths forms the basis of a collection by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna as they pay homage to algorithms through cutwork, straight lines and modern art, dressing the destination bride, with some glamorous help from Malaika Arora

By Asmita Aggarwal

Things have really changed in the new world post-covid with business restructuring and reconfiguring becoming the buzzword. Sensing the dynamics shifting to versatility, the kings of ready-to-wear Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna moved to couture after 15 years of establishing their brand. Their love for art is well-known and as observers of the subtle shifts in couture, they have adapted to offering mix and match options, timeless ensembles you can repeat, as well as lighter versions for the destination bride. “People have seen such terrible losses, so they want to seize the moment, no one is really saving money as times are riddled with uncertainty, the ideology now is ‘why not enjoy, while it lasts’?”

Twist in the flavour of India, luxury handcrafted pieces inspiration from art and architecture forms the edifice of Rohit-Rahul’s couture collection this year. Based on Leonardo Pisano Fibonacci (1170–1240) an Italian number theorist who introduced the Arabic numbering system, square roots, number sequencing, their metallics shine through. The mathematical Fibonacci sequence can be related to the golden ratio, a concept they have used in their silhouettes with embroidery and modern lines. Each piece can be worn with another separate from this collection giving the wearer freedom of choice, in evergreen hues of monochromes and the ocean waves, without forgetting the importance of Indian fuchsias.

“During the lockdown, we revived many vintage embroidery techniques, to keep karigars employed, who had worked with us for 15 years. We never anticipated, one day we would launch a couture collection based on these crafts,” says Rahul Khanna. The beaten dabka fused with metallics and crystals, executed by Rajasthani craftswomen, has been the mainstay, as the duo reiterate their excitement about doing a physical show after three years.

Deconstructed jackets, shirts instead of blouses, handcrafted tuxedos for men, as well as in-built corsets for women, see through can-cans, masculine tailoring techniques applied on to womenswear, available in five sizes catering to a vast section of brides is what is duo brings with them. This year they are losing sequin shine and have developed zardozi laces that have been combined with pearl and hand dabka. “The silhouettes are longer, no churidars, loose pyjamas, divided skirts offer ease along with style.

Interestingly, despite the reluctance to travel, online sales have picked up, especially with NRIs, who are still connected to their roots. “A bride will not come to us for the usual lehenga, but something unique, as our line is targeted at a global customer who values Indian techniques, and wants to experiment with linearity,” he concludes.

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