Gaurav Jai Gupta’s evocative line explores the sometimes reckless relationship between man (hand woven) and machine made (stainless steel), while Payal Pratap gives prints an intuitive sub-text.
By Asmita Aggarwal
Metallics and Gaurav Jai Gupta have been in a long standing serious relationship, which began with his first project and continues till today. So what started with stainless steel woven in the yarn, now culminates with heavily engineered fabrics which combine techno with traditional. Is it industrial distillation or an opulent cachet, is debatable, but Gaurav’s tie up sandals and basket weave caps were interesting and so was the copper and silver zari infused ensembles.
The sky blue shadowed eyes kind of added drama to the menswear, as linen and silk combined to highlight the vivacious palette for a designer, who till now could not get enough of earth tones which came from his training as a weaver and education at the Chelsea College of Art and Design, UK.
This welcome departure heralded a new era with knotted drapes, as reds merged with fruity pinks and the designer indulged in a play of lines with heady vertical stripes. Oversized translucent skirts, naturally crushed emerald green skirts with a metallic sheen were fastened on the waist with a leather belt. With extravagance seen in tie and dye, ikats, Maheshwari weaves as well as jacquards, Gaurav took a rather cerebral approach to fashion with effortless ease and an independent spirit.
Payal Pratap, on the other hand, displayed her conceptual interest in prints without making anything sinuous; she narrated a story through a melange of florals. The testosterone-fuelled Peshwari sandals in tan and woven basket weave totes and backpacks complemented the flowers blooming on no-fuss dresses. Red emerged as a frontrunner as it seeped its power into tunics and jumpsuits and added delightful fullness to the bouquet.
The tiny details like bows added a feminine touch to the rather romantic line where except the plum mouths and minimal sheen on cheeks, the ponytails maintained order. Is fashion forging an artistic relationship with rationality, where you need clothes that are not sculptural but rather wearable? Maybe…but we are lovin’ the textural and clashing prints for now.