October 15, 2016 Asmita Aggarwal

Dernier Cri

A wave of realism sweeps the catwalk as a garden of blooms welcome the advent of SS ’17. Ilk’s paper-like blouses were to die for and Kavita Bhartia’s lace was prolific despite conventional silhouettes, while Tytler’s gold rush kept it sparkling!

By Asmita Aggarwal

In the fashion-o-sphere we are constantly told what is trendy, what to wear to make you look slim, choose the right colour, as magazines become official preachers minus the podiums, but there are some who won’t give you that advice and probably tell you,

“We love you just the way you are.”

In that category one could put young designers who are trying to navigate through the stiff bylanes of the sometimes cruel glam world where you are as good as your last collection. What remains refreshing to witness is how they are looking at fashion and distilling it to create a frothy blend of interesting motifs.

Whether it was Ragini Ahuja of Ikai or Vinita and Shikha of ILK, both represented a conundrum of trends in a well packaged format. The former’s woven tunics and sportswear detailing on high-waisted, slim pants kept it sartorial as the red piping enlivened the heartening royal blues. While the latter’s paper-like, sky blue blouses teamed up with a grey sari and crimson slim suits made it a summer of 69.


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Flowers have remained a recurring leitmotif at the AIFW SS’17 and Ashima and Leena’s line is no different as they unveiled a garden of florals to go with their palazzos, saris and pleated pants. This theme jet-setted into Siddhartha Tytler’s fabulous excessive gold pant suits, but what we liked were the rather subtle white sherwanis with compelling tulips.


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Barefoot models, jute anklets, characteristic pom-poms, layered sleeves and of course, prints, these are some of Anupamaa Dayal’s favourite things. And not to forget Kolkata, the city that also surreptitiously crawls into each collection and this time it was the 15th century pirates, and maritime history. Silk roomy pants, loose plaits, fabric chokers, beach hats and fringed dresses with butterflies flying all over kaftan-style kurtas, along with coin encrusted sling bags were aesthetically coded.


Even though white is always right for summer and it grooved with its lesser cousins like creams and butter colour, the protagonist in Kavita Bhartia’s line remained lace. Lace with its innate delicacy was used as trimmings, hems, borders, as well as constructed into explicably wondrous jackets, worn with tea length and tiered skirts. And it was the graceful Tisca Chopra, who sashayed down the ramp, giving a befitting end to the style spectacle.


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