October 18, 2020 Asmita Aggarwal

Green Dream

Black Lives Matter to recycling waste and the shift to printed rather than zardosi-laden lehengas mark the beginning of a new era

By Asmita Aggarwal

What is it really that makes fashion survive the worst times? Is it more about believing that sunshine is inevitable or is it about letting the storm blow over? Each show at LMIFW has been one where the designer has gone back in time, whether it is childhood memories or growing up in Africa. Ashish Soni known for his superbly tailored suits and sharp menswear dipped into his years in the country that is more known for Apartheid than its blood diamonds.

Rap protest music playing in the background, with lyrics that spoke about the atrocities inflicted on Blacks over a sustained period of time, and a largely colour coded monochromatic palette, Soni subtly managed to portray a moving image of what was endured with resilience and how the Black Lives Matter movement is now a global phenomenon. Sequinned, sporty jackets, the ubiquitous white sneakers, boom box, gold chains, a staple showcased the skewed justice system.

Nature has been a recurring leitmotif and ‘Bloom’ is a word that is foremost on everyone’s mind. That’s why Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs, introduced lehengas that were floral printed, ushering in a lighter and brighter aesthetic.  The one thing the pandemic has taught us all is a lesson in sustainability that’s why the CSM-educated Akshat Bansal used econyl, made from marine plastic waste. His effort was to create a spectrum within the framework of fashion where we are conscious and also have a conscience.

Thus, recycled leather, faux leather, cut work jersey, water repellent metallic faux leather, performance fabrics like parachute and wind breakers. “We work with multiple companies globally to cross pollinate technology and craft to come up with new surfaces and textiles. Shapes are becoming more relaxed and fluid, it makes it more relevant and gender egoistic. Little shine post-pandemic is great to pump up the mood,” said Bansal.

When one breaks the mould to start something fresh, he must be lauded, that’s why it was heart-warming to see Samant Chauhan abandon his usual whites and make way for embellished reds and teals. His evening wear glam, with sheer and cut out backs, layered dresses with graphic embroidery were done with care, as he let the high collared gowns welcome a trans-seasonal viewpoint.

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