Thematically fashion is moving towards an era where minimalism and comfort will soon overturn the need for flirtations with sequins and glamour as the fascination with sexy fades making way for functional clothing
By Asmita Aggarwal
There is something about Pratima Pandey in the way she interprets chanderi, her constant love, her admiration for little flowers that bloom carelessly on her layered ensembles and the fervent desire to remain close to her roots. That’s why her retail store is also carefully chosen —– an old haveli in Said-ul-a-jab, with 100-year-old wooden doors and a mud terrace where the sun shines brightly spreading natural light all over the mammoth space.
Pratima is artistic and articulate, a NIFT graduate who also teaches which she confesses “is therapeutic”, however artists like her find it hard to balance the tightrope between art and commerce maybe that’s why she is the last surviving bastion of true aesthetics, unadulterated by worldly pursuits. When she offers occasion wear it is subtle and elegant with touches of gold in the zari that is beaten down to give it just a mild glimmer of sparkle.
For years, Pratima had loved the crushed skirts that she layers with a kurta and pants, which this time came with dashes of zardosi. The humble sparrow became a trope for a line that celebrated simplicity over digitalisation evoking a past that was slow and meaningful as gossamer fabrics laid the foundation of a bride’s journey in a new world.
Interestingly, day two saw stardust sprinkled on the runway, from the former Ms Universe Sushmita Sen, who really knows how to work an outfit in her favour, with major swirling, the woman with washboard abs despite a turban managed to seduce a discerning audience. While the pint-sized wonder Sophie Choudhary created minor ripples on the catwalk with her draped outfit by Megha Madaan. Cutwork, peplum, polka dots, trumpet sleeves, peek-a-boo fabrics and mellow yellow were what style gurus predicted as summer staples, though Vidhi Wadhwani introduced high collars and solid colours making an exception only for the svelte Diana Penty whose pristine white balloon jacket and tapered pants never left the fascination for this hue.
Prints have been enjoying the favour of the runway for more than two seasons now and the trend doesn’t seem to abate with devotees like Aartivijay Gupta who introduced washed out versions in cappuccinos and pinks as high waists are running wild much like the wicker baskets that are omnipresent and the stripes, lace and crochet that Rahul Singh brought in.
Gold dusted fanny packs, cat’s eye glasses, hoodies, slashed dresses Wendell Rodricks knows what women want as his protégé whom he passed on the baton to Schulen Fernandes carries forward the torch with alacrity. Minty greens, aqua blues and solid colours from purples to reds were mixed in unexpected ways creating bright colourways in athleisure jackets and joggers. If everyone is proclaiming pastels are in, WR declared quite the opposite as his mulberry hued jumpsuits, Schiaparelli pink blouses, classic scarlet kaftans and amber dhoti pants welcomed a lively summer.