March 15, 2018 Asmita Aggarwal

The Theory of Everything

The world mourned the death of an astrophysicist, who proclaimed, “Men were just an advanced breed of monkeys on a minor planet of an average star,” Stephen Hawking. But on a balmy Wednesday afternoon, on the other side of the seven seas was a celebration of a different kind….

By Asmita Aggarwal

What happens when the legendary Adarsh Gill decides to do a show after many years? You have a sea of Birkins on the front row with the most influential names seated in attendance from legal eagle Aryama Sundaram, Dilip and Devi Cherian to royalty—Chitrangada and Vikramaditya Singh of Kashmir. Their newly married daughter Mriganka played the perfect showstopper in the colour of vivacity—flaming red as Ms Gill paid homage to the 50s with her poodle skirts, tweed, flapper dresses and peplum. As no one can understand luxury better than the woman, who once ruled the mean streets of New York with her delicate embroideries.


Though one thing was clear at AIFW 2018, that whether it is autumn or summer, Indians will never let shine dim from their heady ensembles. And no one from Shyamal and Bhumika, who had the lithe Diana Penty shimmer in an emerald green belted lehenga  to Abraham and Thakore could really give up their love for gold.


But it was Shon Randhawa of Patine, who actually introduced us to the real meaning of winter with her rather natty embroidered coats in mustardy hues. She presented a very international line complete with roomy pants, military green big collared tunics as well as the swinging 80s fringed wonders reminding you of the invincible Tina Turner.


Vintage is slowly gaining advantage in a world where despite instant-ness being eulogised, classics have stood their ground. So, tone-on-tone has almost become de rigueur…and the unusually boho Anupamaa Dayal, is not one to shy away from being pellucid. So bikinis peek-a-booed under all white cover ups with Lucknow’s last surviving bastion — Chikankari extensively used, which she adopted, rejigged and presented in her signature style. Her inner gypsy was revealed in lemony and tangerine hued printed beach dresses with knife and kite prints in subterranean blues.


The day began with Samant Chauhan, who kept it monochromatic, almost black as he courted “darkness” with glittering bodices, ruffled gowns and embroidered minaudieres. Among his swift kaftans, overlapping jackets, pinafore dresses, the verdict was that winter was darker, velvet is king and so are Victorian inspirations that emerged in pie crust collars and wavered to hippie skirts.


Fashion hasn’t abandoned its love for big sleeves, anti-fit, asymmetry or bearded men, as you could tell from Samant’s parade of salt and pepper beards. He deserted six packs for real men with steel, complete with muscles they had exercised in the brain rather than biceps, which included fashion professors, and ace photographers, to show that sometimes you need to get out of your comfort zone. “I have tried to reverse everything I did in the past from not working with regular models to using polyester to glass beads, it was more of a journey within, than external,” he admits.



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