July 24, 2016 Asmita Aggarwal

Science of flattery

Gaurav Gupta’s eponymous gowns which have gracefully slided into every bride’s wardrobe are based on the psychology of what looks good on the body, is frankly what’s right!

By Asmita Aggarwal

Before you put a roof, the four pillars need to be sturdy and the same principles of design are followed when you are constructing a line. For Gaurav Gupta the foundation of his collections rest on silhouette, how does it make you feel when you wear an outfit and the process of design, and that’s where for him the “juice” is. “I think the balance in a garment is key, and how it drapes around the body, so it is engineered artwork that comes into play. This time, we have used organza, its translucence is what has been both challenging and riveting. I like the fact that the fabric has its own identity,” he explains.

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The frontrunner in the sari-gown revolution, Gaurav has been the architect of elaborate pieces which brides want custom-made, just from him as by now he has almost mastered the craft. And with destination wedding taking place from Rome to Krabi, the demand for this ensemble has only escalated, he reveals.

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“The only way to move forward is innovation, newer techniques, infusion of colours as we finally abandon metallics for an endearing English rose, ink blue, slate grey, bottle green, powder blue, lavender, a space where I have never been before. I straddle two extremes in the palette—–darker love to romantic hues,” he admits.

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Looking at structure in a fluid manner, Gaurav’s keen eye is including architectural inspirations through ingenious cutting techniques. The spirals, swirls, circular forms along with fit and flare as well as abundant corsetry build a new language within the existing one. What he is especially excited about is the introduction of what he calls the ‘new Indian wear’. The lehenga-cholis are done with a flourish incorporating boning and sculpting, which can be worn during the sangeet, cocktail or reception. “Mostly contemporary brides select me as we don’t do embroidery rich clothes, but we do execute edgy threadwork. The idea is to merge the conceptual with the wearable,” he confesses.

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His ICW 2016 obsession remains pearls and tassels, so you see an organza skirt with layers teamed up with adupatta or empire line gowns with a linear quality about them, which can be worn by a bride of any dimension in fabrics ranging from crepe, georgette to chiffon. As his gowns remains in the realm of fantasy-scape, Gaurav is looking at reinventing what traditional bridal looks like by giving it a sculptural appeal.

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