July 29, 2013 Asmita Aggarwal

Soul Calling

For the jewel of Kolkata, Anamika Khanna, the couture space is not restricted to glittering, heavily embroidered garments, in fact the market for her is the quieter India, which respects crafts and tradition, but also desires modernity tweaked to suit their changing tastes.

Kolkata’s jewel Anamika Khanna admits couture is more than just lehenga-choli and God is really in the details.

For the jewel of Kolkata, Anamika Khanna, the couture space is not restricted to glittering, heavily embroidered garments, in fact the market for her is the quieter India, which respects crafts and tradition, but also desires modernity tweaked to suit their changing tastes.

“I know, in India a large part of couture is bridal, made-to-order, there is no denying that, but the saris, Anarkalis and ghagras are slowly evolving as weddings have changed and so have people participating in them,” she says.

Maybe that’s why the bride who Ana caters to is no longer interested in a display of wealth judged by the sparkling crystals on her wedding trousseau, but what she does care about is quality, finish and an ingenious idea. “In couture, it is not just about how the ensemble looks from the outside, but also how it makes you feel from within, as it is customized for you. God is really in the details,” she laughs.

Stating the fact that couture in India is all about evening wear unlike the West where, you have Vogue Japan’s editor Anna Dello Russo, wearing couture even in the day. “Couture is a way of life, it is all about dressing up, so why should it be restricted to just a party or a special occasion?” she asks.

So this year’s line will be more experimental in shape and silhouette, and Ana does confess that it won’t be sans any embroidery, but yes, it won’t bag the spotlight. “You will just have to go up, close to see it. I just wanted the focus to be on crafts this time and for me the challenge remains my obsession with India from the start, right till the end,” she grins. But she does clarify that the India she is hoping to represent is not an ethnic one.

“A lot of people ask me, ‘What next, Ana?’; it just puts a lot of pressure on me. Maybe I don’t want to prove a point, maybe I don’t myself know what’s next?” she says.

Interestingly, not caught in the blizzard of fame or yearning for power, Ana admits she does not like her garments to be worn by…ahem “decorative dolls”. “I like a bit of an imperfection, women too beautiful seem plastic. Having said that I must tell you I love luxury, I understand it, I am unapologetic about it and like to court it. But it doesn’t define who I am,” she says.

That’s why her collection is targeted at the thinking woman, a woman who has empathy, her life does not revolve around just looking chic all day long. “It is not about dressing a model, or lithe bodies, tall women or someone with a great waist. But someone who knows the labour, sweat and blood that goes into making each of these pieces. Also a woman who has the courage to do her own thing,” she smiles.
So when a young girl visits Ana asking her to dress her from top to bottom (shoes, bag, make-up, jewellery) she gets a bit…well upset. “You must have your own views also. You should know what looks good on you. I can help, but it must be a two-way process,” she says.

Putting together this line involved stealing away those precious moments from her twins and working on Sundays and sometimes late at night. “The boys are so concerned seeing the final touches being given, they offer to help with the music, ask if they can see the show, it’s wonderful. Having them around for moral support makes all of this so meaningful,” she concludes.

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