August 8, 2012 Asmita Aggarwal

Edgy and experimental, are two words that best describe Gaurav Gupta

Edgy and experimental, are two words that best describe Gaurav Gupta. Not Indian, but a more global appeal is what the designer attempts with his collections

Edgy and experimental, are two words that best describe Gaurav Gupta. Not Indian, but a more global appeal is what the designer attempts with his collections twice a year as he focuses on intricate draping, irregular hems, obsessive embroideries and subtly plays with the contradictions between futuristic and primitive.

It is more a burst of thoughts, excessive research, adding fresh impetus to his often Mathematically calculated drapes that coil around the body than a structured well-thought of line. He likes to sketch, redo, change and then start afresh, till he gets it right. “My couture rendition keeps evolving, frankly it changes according to my moods. Though I must confess that there has been a sea change in the bridal market. It wants less embroidery, sharper silhouettes, in fact the ‘normal’ lehengas that I made for the first time six years back when I started, haven’t sold as well as my sari or kurta gowns,” he says.

Clearing the misconception that couture is just about bridal wear is just about the prospective brides or her extended family. As now the rich and famous are also buying for cocktails, anniversaries, Diwali bashes, even birthday parties are getting bigger and bolder. The GG style bracket hopes to reinvent the wheel, maybe dress an Eva Green or Anne Hathaway in the future, someone who is open, sexy, vivacious and is adventurous enough to try something new. “Yes, I have created couture with no embroidery or sequins, and draped a sari with flowers in satin that brides can wear with just bold jewellery. There is a complete mental shift and I can slowly see an acceptance of French chiffon, tulle, lace and nets that give ensembles a fairy-like stance. I am a bit classic when it comes to fabrics as I like to give my pieces a sculptural touch,” he adds.

A believer in all things new-age, Gaurav feels tradition too needs to be modernized, and people must be given more choices, so he refuses to be stuck in a time warp and likes to focus less on brocades or textiles. “So many people are already reviving textiles, I don’t want to jump on the bandwagon,” he clarifies.

GG has also adapted to changing times, earlier he was squeamish about showing skin, but his new bride is edgier, stronger yet romantic and certainly sexier. “There are two extremes in the Indian market, one who love ecru, nudes and gold and the other who just can’t do without the neon pink, saffron and orange, I cater to both and do believe colour looks great on Indian skin,” he smiles.

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